B12-042

@ACURA
Applies To:
Service Bulletin
12-042!'i.il
2011-12 TSX L4 with MIT-ALL
2013 TSX L4 with MIT- From JH4CU2E .. DC000001 thru JH4CU2E .. DC001633
May 10, 2017
2011-13 TSX: Excessive Engine Oil Consumption
(Supersedes 13-075, dated February 22, 2013, to revise the information marked by the black bars)
I
REVISION SUMMARY
Under REQUIRED MATERIALS the oil was changed to
Full Synthetic Engine Oil, PIN 08798-9073.
SYMPTOM
The oil consumption is more than the client expects;
the engine oil level is low on the dipstick sooner than
expected based on overall vehicle usage, condition,
and maintenance history. In some cases, the oil
warning light may come on.
POSSIBLE CAUSE
There are multiple possible contributors that may
cause the client to perceive a higher than expected oil
consumption. Talk to the customer about the many
factors that can influence oil consumption (see the
"Service Consultant" section of this service bulletin). If
you do not see any other factors contributing to the oil
consumption, consider engine-braking as the possible
cause.
Engine-braking creates a high vacuum condition in the
engine that may cause more oil to pass by the piston
rings than expected. This condition may occur on
vehicles with manual transmissions as drivers can
downshift and decelerate with minimal or no throttle
input. If a driver regularly downshifts to decelerate,
especially at higher RPMs with no throttle input, such
as driving down a long grade, or when coming to a
stop, the client may notice that oil is being consumed at
a higher than expected rate.
Service Consultant:
Talk to the client about the many factors that contribute
to oil consumption, such as maintenance history, using
the incorrect oil, driving under extreme conditions, or
other factors that can contribute to oil consumption.
Remind the client that it's not uncommon that oil may
need to be added between services. Modem engines
and oils can go much longer between scheduled oil
changes, which makes it necessary to periodically
check the engine oil level.
Recommend to your client that it's a good idea to check
the engine oil regularly (as recommended in the
Owner's Manual) and add oil as needed.
PARTS INFORMATION
Bolt-Washer (ten required): PIN 90005-RNA-A0l
Connecting Rod Bolt (eight required):
PIN 13204-RBB-004
Cylinder Head Gasket Kit: PIN 06110-R44-A00
Chain Case Gasket Kit: PIN 06114-R40-J01
Flange Bolt (12x45): PIN 90165-SDA-A00
Flange Bolt (12x65): PIN 90168-TA0-A00
Flange Bolt (12x30) (two required):
PIN 90176-SKN-000
Flexible Exhaust Gasket: PIN18229-SEA-013
Intake Manifold Gasket (four required):
PIN l 7115-R40-A01
Primary Converter Gasket: PIN 18115-R40-A01
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Piston Ring Set (four required): PIN 13011-RLS-A0l
If you determine that engine braking is the possible
cause, replace all the engine pistons and the piston
rings.
Piston Set A: PIN 13010-RLS-A00
(Go to ORDERING PISTONS on page 16 for
more information about which piston set you
need.)
Piston Set B: PIN 13020-RLS-A00
(Go to ORDERING PISTONS on page 16 for
more information about which piston set you
need.)
NOTE: You need a total of four piston sets, but you will
probably need a mix of both A and B piston sets.
© 2013 American Honda Motor Co., Inc. -All Rights Reserved
Skill Level
R
REPAIR
BTB 06417 (Version 2)
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CLIENT INFORMATION: The information in this bulletin is intended for use only by skilled technicians who have the proper tools, equipment, and
training to correctly and safely maintain your vehicle. These procedures should not be attempted by "do-it-yourselfers," and you should not assume this
bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle has the condition described. To determine whether this information applies, contact an authorized
Acura automobile dealer.
TOOL INFORMATION
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
• Camshaft Lock Pin Set: TIN 07 AAB-RWCA120
Operation Number:
111167
• Gasket Remover/Pan Separator: TIN LIL50190
Flat Rate Time:
11.2 hours
• Piston Ring Expander (Snap-On TIN PRS8 or
equivalent)
Failed Part:
PIN 130 ll-R40-Al2
Defect Code:
03 217
Symptom Code:
09401
Skill Level:
Repair Technician
• Piston Ring Compressor (SCP1287 or equivalent)
• 1/2 in. Drive Torque Angle Gauge (commerciallyavailable)
• Engine Hanger: PIN AAR-Tl256
REPAIR PROCEDURE
REQUIRED MA TE RIALS
• Hondabond HT Silicone Liquid Gasket
•
• Full Synthetic Engine Oil 5W-20: PIN 08798-9073
• Acura Long-Life Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2:
PIN OL999-9011A
• Acura Genuine Power Steering Fluid:
PIN 08206-9002A
The following service manual procedures have been
used in full or in part within this service bulletin. For
more detail on these procedures, and torque
specifications for some components, refer to the
appropriate service manual, or view them online.
• Engine Oil Replacement
• Battery Terminal Disconnection and Reconnection
• Fuel Pressure Relieving
• Coolant Replacement
• Drive Belt Removal/Installation
• Intake Manifold Removal and Installation
• Warm Up TWC Removal/Installation
• Fuel Line/Quick-Connect Fitting Removal
• Cylinder Head Removal
• Cam Chain Removal
• Rocker Arm Assembly Removal
• Valve Adjustment
• Oil Pan Installation
• Idle Learn Procedure
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12-042
NOTE:
• Before starting work, make sure to order the
correct number of" A" and "B" pistons. Refer to
ORDERING PISTONS on page 16 of this bulletin.
12. Remove the quick-connect fitting cover, then
disconnect the fuel feed hose.
QUICK-CONNECT
FITTING COVER
• Use fender covers to avoid damaging painted
surfaces.
• To avoid damaging the wires and terminals, unplug
the wiring connectors carefully while holding the
connector portion.
• To avoid damaging the cylinder head, wait until the
engine coolant temperature drops below 100°F
(38°C) before loosening the cylinder head bolts. If
needed, connect the HDS to the DLC, and monitor
ECT SENSOR 1.
• Mark all wiring and hoses to avoid misconnection.
Also, be sure that they do not contact any other
wiring or hoses, or interfere with any other parts.
1.
Make sure that Service Bulletin 11-049, Product
Update: Software Update to Improve Fuel Injector
and VTC Timing, is complete by checking the iN
VIN status.
2. Put the vehicle on a lift.
3. Relieve the fuel pressure.
FUEL FEED HOSE
13. Disconnect the four fuel injector connectors, the
engine mount control solenoid connectors, and the
ground cables.
FUEL INJECTOR
CONNECTORS
4. Do the battery terminal disconnection procedure.
5.
Drain the engine oil.
6. Remove the strut brace (if equipped).
7.
Drain the engine coolant.
8. Remove the drive belt.
9. Remove the intake manifold.
10. Remove the warm up three way catalytic converter
(TWC).
11. Disconnect the brake booster vacuum and EVAP
canister hoses.
EVAP CANISTER HOSE
GROUND
CABLES
14. Remove the four bolts securing the EVAP canister
purge valve bracket.
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15. Disconnect the upper radiator hose, the radiator
hose, and the heater hoses.
RADIATOR
HOSE
17. Remove the front cam chain cover and the cam
chain.
HEATER
HOSES
16. Remove the two bolts securing the connecting
pipe. Disconnect the water bypass hose.
CONNECTING PIPE
MOUNTING BOLTS
18. Remove the rocker arm assembly and both cam
shafts.
19. Remove the cylinder head bolts in sequence. To
prevent warpage, loosen the bolts in sequence 1/3
turn at a time; repeat the sequence until all the bolts
are loosened.
CONNECTING PIPE
20. Remove the cylinder head.
21. Raise the vehicle on the lift.
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12-042
22. Remove the clutch case cover, and remove the two
bolts securing the oil pan to the transmission.
25. To hold the balancer shaft, insert a 6 mm (1/4 in.)
diameter long pin punch into the maintenance hole
in the balancer shaft holder and through the rear
balancer shaft.
CLUTCH
CASE COVER
23. Remove the bolts securing the oil pan.
24. Using the pan separator, separate the oil pan from
the engine block in the indicated areas, and remove
the oil pan.
26. Remove the oil pump chain auto-tensioner.
OIL PUMP CHAIN
AUTO-TENSIONER
Pry here.
27. Loosen the oil pump sprocket mounting bolt.
OIL PUMP SPROCKET
MOUNTING BOLT
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28. Remove the oil pump sprocket and the oil pump.
29. Remove the baffle plate.
30. Lower the vehicle to a comfortable working height,
and place a clean shop towel around the cylinder
wall to prevent debris from entering the coolant
passage.
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12-042
31. Check the cylinder walls by rubbing your fingernail
or a pencil with light pressure perpendicular to any
vertical scratches that are in the cylinder bore.
• If your fingernail or pencil does not catch on the
scratches, the cylinder block is OK. Go to step
33.
• If your fingernail or pencil catches on the
scratches, go to step 32 to continue checking the
cylinder block.
32. Remove the piston from the scratched cylinder
bore. Inspect the piston skirt for any scratches or
damage that corresponds with the scratched
cylinder bore.
• If the piston skirt has deep scratches, or is
damaged, and corresponds to the position of the
bore scratches, replace the engine block. This
bulletin no longer applies. You must obtain
DPSM authorization and refer online to Engine
Removal and Installation to reinstall the
engine.
• If the piston skirt has no damage, the cylinder
block is OK; go to step 33.
Gt:mo,
Normal honing marks shown.
Light scratches are not abnormal.
Ensure a fingernail or pencil "catches" on the
scratches before replacing the block.
Ji C~ DlEBI -ICRATiClilEI,
OR.DAMAGE
12-042
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33. Remove the rod caps and the bearings.
NOTE:
• Mark each rod cap and its corresponding rod
with the cylinder number.
• The existing markings refer to the size of the big
end of the rod, not the number of the cylinder.
35. Visually inspect all the connecting rod bearings for
signs of damage.
NOTE: If your fingernail catches on a scratch or
groove in the bearing, replace it. Pictured are
normal reusable rod bearings after about 35,000
miles. Some discoloration is normal and does not
require replacement.
Half of the number or bar is
stamped on the connecting rod
and the other half is stamped
~ "'~---.L-r-on ~e md
~
34. Use a wooden hammer handle to drive out each of
the piston and connecting rod assemblies.
NOTE: Be careful not to damage the cylinder walls
or the crankshaft when pushing out the pistons and
the connecting rod assemblies.
36. Measure the diameter of each connecting rod bolt
at points A and B.
~
~
35 mm (1.38;o) '
11111+11W111
20 mm (0.79 in)
37. Calculate the difference in diameter between points
AandB:
• Point A - Point B = Difference in Diameter
• Difference in Diameter Specification:
0 - 0.1 mm (0.004 in.)
• If the difference in diameter is out of
specification, replace the connecting rod bolt.
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12-042
38. Put on eye protection, then remove the snap rings
from both sides of each piston. Start at the cutout in
the piston pin bore. Remove the snap rings
carefully so they don't go flying or get lost.
42. Heat the piston to about 158°F (70°C).
SNAP
RING
43. Assemble the piston and the connecting rod with
the arrow and the embossed mark on the same
side. Install the piston pin.
39. Put on gloves, heat the piston and the ends
connecting rod to about 158°F (70°C), then remove
the piston pin.
NOTE: The old piston, the pin, and the snap rings
won't be reused.
NOTE: When the piston and the rod end are heated
properly, the piston pin should slide into position
relatively easily. You will damage the piston if you
try to use a hammer or a press to force the piston
pin in.
EMBOSSED
MARK
40. Install a new piston pin snap ring on one side of a
new piston.
PISTON
CONNECTING ROD
41. Coat the piston pin bore in the piston, the bore in
the connecting rod, and the piston pin with new
engine oil.
44. Install the remaining snap ring.
45. Tum the snap ring in the ring grooves until the end
gaps are positioned at the bottom of the piston.
46. Repeat steps 39-46 for the remaining pistons.
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47. Using a piston ring expander, install the spacer and
two oil rings. Then install the second ring and top
ring with the manufacturing marks facing up. The
second ring has a "2" followed by a letter or letters.
The top ring has a" l" followed by a letter or letters.
53. Position the mark to face the cam chain end of the
engine block.
NOTE: The new rings may not have the same
manufacturing marks as the originals.
TOP RING
MARK
MANUFACTURING
MARK
SECOND
RING
54. Set the piston in the ring compressor, and position
the piston in the cylinder noting the rod/cap marks
that you made in step 34.
RING COMPRESSOR
. - - - - - - Thinner edge up.
~
48. Rotate the rings in their grooves to make sure they
do not bind.
49. Position the ring end gaps as shown.
About 90°
·····...
................
TOP RING GAP and
SPACER RING GAP
OIL RING GAP
PISTON PIN
50. Rotate the crankshaft so that cylinders 1 and 4 are
at bottom dead center (BDC).
~
--1:>
The Ong comp,essoc
should be in this
position on the piston
before installation in
the cylinder bore.
51. Remove the connecting rod cap to piston 1, and
check that the bearing is securely in place.
52. Apply new engine oil to the piston, the inside of the
ring compressor, the cylinder bore, and the rod
bearings.
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12-042
55. Set the ring compressor on the piston bore, then
push the piston in with your hands.
58. Tighten the connecting rod bolts an
additional 120°.
NOTE: If you tightened a rod bolt beyond the
specified angle, remove it and repeat steps 58 and
59. Do not loosen the bolt back to the specified
angle.
120°
59. Repeat steps 48 thru 59 for piston number 4.
60. Rotate the crankshaft so that cylinders 2 and 3 are
at bottom dead center (BDC).
61. Repeat steps 48 thru 59 for piston number 2 and 3.
62. Rotate the crankshaft several times after all
connecting rods have been installed to ensure that
nothing is binding.
63. Install the baffle plate, and torque the bolts to
12 N·m (8. 7 lb-ft).
64. Place the No. 1 piston at top dead center (TDC).
Make sure the mark lines up with the pointer.
56. Stop after the ring compressor pops free, and
check the connecting rod-to-rod journal alignment
before pushing the piston into place.
NOTE: The other pointer is not used.
UNUSED
POINTER
57. Apply new engine oil to the bolt threads, then install
the connecting rod cap with the bearing. Torque the
bolts to 41 N·m (30 lb-ft).
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65. Align the dowel pin on the rear balancer shaft with
the mark on the oil pump.
68. Apply new engine oil to the threads of the oil pump
mounting bolts and the oil pump sprocket mounting
bolt, then loosely install the oil pump with a new
0-ring.
OIL PUMP
SPROCKET
MOUNTING BOLT
,
~ ~ J,
ij~ '1
10 x 1.25 mm
44 N-m (33 lb-ft)
66. To hold the rear balancer shaft, insert the 6 mm
(1/4 in.) diameter long pin punch into the
maintenance hole in the balancer shaft holder and
through the rear balancer shaft.
6x 1.0 mm
12 N-m
(8. 7 lb-ft)
\
OIL PUMP CHAIN
AUTO-TENSIONER
OIL PUMP
MOUNTING BOLTS
10 x 1.25 mm
44 N-m (33 lb-ft)
67. Tum the oil pump auto-tensioner plate
counterclockwise to release the lock, then push the
auto-tensioner arm, and set the first cam to the first
edge of the rack. Insert a 3.0 mm (7/64 in.)
diameter pin into the hole.
NOTE: If the chain tensioner is not set up as
described, the tensioner will be damaged.
8 x 1.25 mm
22 N-m (16 lb-ft)
6 mm DIAMETER
PIN PUNCH
69. Torque the oil pump mounting bolts to
44 N·m (33 lb-ft).
70. Install the engine oil pump chain.
• Set the crankshaft to top dead center (TDC).
Align the TDC mark on the crankshaft sprocket
with the pointer on the engine block.
3.0 mm (7/64 in.)
DIAMETER PIN
PLATE
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HOLE
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• Install the oil pump chain on the crankshaft
sprocket with the colored link plate aligned with
the TDC mark on the crankshaft sprocket.
73. Remove the 3. 0 mm pin from the oil pump chain
auto-tensioner.
74. Remove all of the old liquid gasket from the oil pan
mating surfaces, the bolts, and the bolt holes.
75. Clean and dry the oil pan mating surfaces.
• Set the oil pump chain on the oil pump chain
sprocket with the punch mark aligned with the
center of the colored link plates, then install the
oil pump chain sprocket to the oil pump.
OIL PUMP
CHAIN GUIDE BOLT
12 N-m (8.7 lb-ft)___,_,,=
OIL PUMP
SPROCKET
MOUNTING BOLT
44 N-m (33 lb-ft)
76. Apply liquid gasket, PIN 08717-0004, 08718-0003,
or 08718-0009, to the engine block mating surface
of the oil pan and to the inside edge of the threaded
bolt holes. Install the component within 5 minutes of
applying the liquid gasket.
NOTE:
• Apply a 2.5 mm (0.098 in) diameter bead of liquid
gasket along the broken line.
• If more than 5 minutes have passed after
applying the liquid gasket, remove the old liquid
gasket and residue, then reapply new liquid
gasket.
• Do not apply any sealant where the cam chain
case is installed because the sealant will dry
before you can reinstall the case.
'?~,
No sealant ______.-r
here. This area
will be sealed
after the chain
cover is
installed. ~
0
'
0
6 mm LONG
PIN PUNCH
• Apply new engine oil to the threads of the oil
pump sprocket mounting bolt, then install it and
torque it to 44 N·m (33 lb-ft).
71. Install the oil pump chain auto-tensioner, and
torque the bolts to 12 N·m (8. 7 lb-ft).
,
)'~'!!!!·~~;e.-~-~~~~
·' -
LIQUID G A S K E ~ 2 _5 mm
~
(0.098;n.J
77. Install the oil pan to the engine block.
72. Remove the 6 mm (1/4 in.) diameter long pin
punch.
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78. Tighten the bolts in three steps. In the final step,
torque all bolts, in sequence, to 12 N·m (9 lb-ft).
NOTE:
• Wait at least 30 minutes after installing the cam
chain case before filling the engine with oil.
• Do not run the engine for at least 3 hours after
installing the oil pan.
81. Reinstall the cylinder head.
• Measure the diameter of each cylinder head bolt
at point A and point B.
• If either diameter is less than 10. 8 mm (0 .417 in),
replace the cylinder head bolt.
• Apply new engine oil to the threads and under
the bolt heads of all cylinder head bolts.
50 mm (1.97 in
45 mm (1.77 in)
These three
bolts will be
installed after
the chain cover
is installed.
79. Install a new oil filter.
80. Reinstall the clutch case cover, and reinstall the two
bolts securing the oil pan to the transmission.
• Torque the cylinder head bolts in sequence to
39 N·m (20 lb-ft). When using a preset click-type
torque wrench, be sure to tighten slowly and do
not overtighten. If a bolt makes any noise while
you are torquing it, loosen the bolt and retighten
it from the first step.
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12-042
• After torquing, tighten all cylinder head bolts in
two steps (90° per step) using the sequence
shown above. If you are using a new cylinder
head bolt, tighten the bolt an extra 90°.
85. Install the cam chain cover.
NOTE: Remove the cylinder head bolt if you
tightened it beyond the specified angle, and go
back to the second bullet to remeasure the bolt.
Do not loosen it back to the specified angle.
CAM CHAIN CASE
I
~
82. Reinstall the rocker arm assembly and the cam
shafts.
83. Reinstall the cam chain.
86. Adjust the valves.
84. Apply liquid gasket to the oil pan where it meets the
cam chain case and to the inside edge of the
threaded bolt holes. Install the cam chain case
within 5 minutes of applying the liquid gasket.
87. Reinstall the cylinder head cover.
~~-L____I7--1-,,,tf'!J"~--~.:e7
LIQUID G A S ~ 3 _5 mm
~(0.138in)
88. Reinstall the connecting pipe.
89. Reinstall the upper radiator hose, the heater hoses,
and the water bypass hose.
90. Reinstall the EVAP canister purge valve bracket.
91. Reconnect the four fuel injectors, the engine mount
control solenoid connector, and the ground cables.
92. Reconnect the fuel feed hose and the quickconnect fitting cover.
93. Reconnect the EVAP canister hose.
94. Reinstall the warm up TWC.
95. Install the intake manifold.
96. Reinstall the drive belt.
97. Fill the engine with coolant.
98. Reinstall the strut brace (if equipped), and torque
the bolts to 22 N·m (16 lb-ft).
99. Fill the engine with oil.
100. Do the terminal reconnection procedure.
101. Crank the engine for about 5 seconds to prime the
engine with oil pressure before plugging in the
ignition coils.
102. Reconnect the four ignition coils.
103. Do the idle learn procedure.
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ORDERING PISTONS
Every engine has some combination of A- and B-sized
pistons. You can determine the sizes and their
locations in the block by inspecting the markings on the
timing chain end of the engine block or by looking at
the pistons.
The pistons have identifiers; "A" pistons are unmarked;
"B" pistons are marked with a "B". Make sure you order
the appropriate number of each piston size before
starting work.
"A" pistons are not marked on the top of the piston _
"B" pistons are always marked with a "B" stamp.
The The "A" oc "B"; n d ; i p;ston , ;ze
PISTON SIZES
The "A" and "B" represents piston
size. Piston sizes can be mixed in
an engine block assembly_
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