SB-12-087

CSC-10052511-9344

SB-10052511-3439
Service Bulletin
Applies To:
12-087
April 30, 2013
See VEHICLES AFFECTED
2008–11 Accord L4: Sticking Rings Resulting in Unusually High Engine Oil
Consumption
(Supersedes 12-087, dated April 3, 2013, to revise the information marked by the black bars)
REVISION SUMMARY
Under PARTS INFORMATION, a cylinder head gasket
kit and flexible gasket were added.
SYMPTOM
The engine oil level is low on the dipstick, and the oil
warning light may come on in rare high oil consumption
situations.
POSSIBLE CAUSE
Under certain specific circumstances the engine may
create deposits on the oil control rings, which may lead
to increased oil consumption when all of the following
conditions occur simultaneously on a regular and
prolonged basis:
• The engine is cold (not warmed up to operating
temperature)
VEHICLES AFFECTED
2008–09 Accord L4 – ALL
2010 Accord 2-Door L4 M/T
From VIN 1HGCS1...AA002051 thru
1HGCS1...AA018407
2011 Accord 2-Door L4 A/T
From VIN 1HGCS1...BA000007 thru
1HGCS1...BA012195
2010 Accord 4-Door L4 M/T
From VIN 1HGCP2...AA012263 thru
1HGCP2...AA168741
2011 Accord 4-Door L4 A/T
From VIN 1HGCP2...BA000010 thru
1HGCP2...BA097742
From VIN JHMCP2...BC000018 thru
JHMCP2...BC000037
• Hard acceleration while the engine is cold
• The fuel used has an unusually high concentration of
particles - Honda recommends using Top Tier gas
that contains detergents to prevent deposits. For
more information about Top Tier gas, go to
www.toptiergas.com.
All these conditions happening at the same time are
rare, but if they do occur, deposits may form over years
of driving under these conditions. If the oil control rings
begin to stick because of the deposits, the customer
may subsequently complain about excessive oil
consumption.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Do the oil consumption test and, if necessary, replace
all the engine pistons and the piston rings.
Service Advisor:
Talk to the customer about the many factors
contributing to oil consumption. Remind customers that
with less frequent service intervals for modern engines,
it is not uncommon for a client to add oil between
services. Therefore, it is a good idea for customers to
check their engine oil regularly (as recommended in
the Owner’s Manual) and add oil as necessary.
 2013 American Honda Motor Co., Inc. – All Rights Reserved
ATB 47913-49424 REV1 (1304)
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CUSTOMER INFORMATION: The information in this bulletin is intended for use only by skilled technicians who have the proper tools, equipment,
and training to correctly and safely maintain your vehicle. These procedures should not be attempted by “do-it-yourselfers,” and you should not assume
this bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle has the condition described. To determine whether this information applies, contact an
authorized Honda automobile dealer.
PARTS INFORMATION
Chain Case Gasket Kit: P/N 06114-R44-A00
TOOL INFORMATION
• Camshaft Lock Pin Set: T/N 07AAB-RWCA120
Connecting Rod Bolt (eight may be needed):
P/N 13204-RBB-004
• Gasket Remover/Pan Separator: T/N LIL50190
Cylinder Head Gasket Kit: P/N 06110-R44-A00
Cylinder Head Gasket Kit: P/N 06110-R45-L00
• Piston Ring Expander (Snap-On T/N PRS8 or
equivalent)
• Piston Ring Compressor (SCP1287 or equivalent)
NOTE: Be sure that these gasket kits are ordered from
the parts catalog for the vehicle being worked on.
• 1/2 in. Drive Torque Angle Gauge (commerciallyavailable)
Flexible Gasket: P/N 18229-SEA-013
Head Bolt-Washer (ten may be needed):
P/N 90005-RNA-A01
• Engine Hanger: P/N AAR-T1256
Intake Manifold Gasket (four required):
P/N 17115-R40-A01
O-ring: P/N 91301-R40-A01
Primary Converter Gasket: P/N 18115-R40-A01
Self-locking Nut (four required): P/N 90212-RCA-A01
2008–10 Accord
NOTE: Make sure you order the correct piston ring set
and piston sets for the applicable year vehicle you are
working on.
Piston Ring Set (4 required): P/N 13011-R44-A01
Piston Set A: P/N 13010-R40-A00 (Go to ORDERING
PISTONS on page 16 for more information about
which piston set you need.)
Piston Set B: P/N 13020-R40-A00 (Go to ORDERING
PISTONS on page 16 for more information about
which piston set you need.)
REQUIRED MATERIALS
• Hondabond HT Silicone
• Genuine Honda Motor Oil (0W-20): P/N 08798-9036
• Honda Long-Life Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2:
P/N OL999-9011
• Honda Genuine Power Steering Fluid:
P/N 08206-9002
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
The normal warranty applies.
Operation Number: 111167
Flat Rate Time:
11.2 hours
Failed Part:
P/N 13011-R44-A01
Defect Code:
03214
Symptom Code:
09401
NOTE: You need a total of four piston sets, but you will
probably need a mix of both A and B piston sets.
Skill Level:
Repair Technician
2011 Accord
NOTE: Make sure you order the correct piston ring set
and piston sets for the applicable year vehicle you are
working on.
DIAGNOSIS
1. Do an engine oil consumption test. Refer to the Job
Aid Engine Oil Consumption Test.
Piston Ring Set (4 required): P/N 13011-R40-A11
Piston Set A: P/N 13010-R40-A10
(Go to ORDERING PISTONS on page 16 for
more information about which piston set you
need.)
Piston Set B: P/N 13020-R40-A10
(Go to ORDERING PISTONS on page 16 for
more information about which piston set you
need.)
NOTE: You need a total of four piston sets, but you will
probably need a mix of both A and B piston sets.
2. Review the results of the engine oil consumption
test.
• Based on the test results, if the engine is
consuming an unusually high amount of oil,
contact your DPSM for approval, then go to
REPAIR PROCEDURE.
• Based on the test results, if the engine is
consuming a normal amount of engine oil, the
vehicle is OK. Explain to the customer that the
vehicle is OK, and that the consumption of oil is
within a normal range.
NOTE: Remind the customer to regularly check the
engine oil level every time they fill the fuel tank.
Modern engines require less frequent oil changes,
which may impact the amount of oil used between
oil changes.
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12-087
REPAIR PROCEDURE
The following service manual procedures have been
used in full or in part within this service bulletin. For
more detail on these procedures and torque
specifications for some components, refer to the
appropriate service manual, or view them online.
• Fuel Pressure Relieving
• Battery Terminal Disconnection and Reconnection
• Engine Oil Replacement
• Coolant Replacement
• Drive Belt Removal/Installation
• Intake Manifold Removal and Installation
• Warm Up TWC Removal/Installation
• Fuel Line/Quick-Connect Fitting Removal
• Cam Chain Removal
NOTE:
• Before starting work, make sure to order the
correct number of “A” and “B” pistons. Refer to
ORDERING PISTONS on page 16 of this bulletin.
• Use fender covers to avoid damaging painted
surfaces.
• To avoid damaging the wires and terminals, unplug
the wiring connectors carefully while holding the
connector portion.
• To avoid damaging the cylinder head, wait until the
engine coolant temperature drops below 100°F
(38°C) before loosening the cylinder head bolts. If
needed, connect the HDS to the DLC, and monitor
ECT SENSOR 1.
• Mark all wiring and hoses to avoid misconnection.
Also, be sure that they do not contact any other
wiring or hoses, or interfere with any other parts.
• Valve Adjustment
1. Make sure that Service Bulletin 11-049, Product
Update: Software Update to Improve Fuel Injector
and VTC Timing is complete by checking the iN
VIN status.
• Oil Pan Installation
2. Put the vehicle on a lift.
• Rocker Arm Assembly Removal
• Cylinder Head Removal
• PCM Idle Learn Procedure
3. Relieve the fuel pressure.
4. Do the battery terminal disconnection procedure.
5. Drain the engine oil.
6. Remove the strut brace (if equipped).
7. Drain the engine coolant.
8. Remove the drive belt.
9. Remove the intake manifold.
10. Remove the warm up three way catalytic converter
(TWC).
11. Disconnect the brake booster vacuum and EVAP
canister hoses.
BRAKE BOOSTER
VACUUM HOSE
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EVAP CANISTER HOSE
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12. Remove the quick-connect fitting cover, then
disconnect the fuel feed hose.
QUICK-CONNECT
FITTING COVER
15. Disconnect the radiator hoses and the heater
hoses. Disconnect the ATF warmer bypass hose (if
equipped).
NOTE: The second radiator hose is connected to
the thermostat and is not shown.
ATF WARMER
BYPASS HOSE
RADIATOR
HOSE
FUEL FEED HOSE
13. Disconnect the four fuel injector connectors and the
engine mount control solenoid valve connectors,
and disconnect the ground cables.
FUEL INJECTOR
CONNECTORS
CONTROL
SOLENOID
VALVE
CONNECTOR
GROUND
CABLES
HEATER
HOSES
16. Remove the two bolts securing the connecting
hose. Disconnect the water bypass hose.
CONNECTING HOSE
MOUNTING BOLTS
WATER
BYPASS
HOSE
CONNECTING HOSE
14. Remove the four bolts securing the EVAP canister
purge valve bracket.
BOLTS
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17. Remove the cam chain case and the cam chain.
22. Remove the clutch case cover (A/T) or the torque
converter cover (M/T), and remove the two bolts
securing the oil pan to the transmission.
CAM CHAIN CASE
SPACER
CLUTCH
CASE COVER
18. Remove the rocker arm assembly and both cam
shafts.
23. With A/T: Remove the shift cable cover.
SHIFT CABLE
19. Remove the cylinder head bolts. To prevent
warpage, loosen the bolts in sequence 1/3 turn at a
time; repeat the sequence until all the bolts are
loosened.
1
7
9
5
3
8
2
SHIFT CABLE COVER
4
6
10
24. Remove the bolts securing the oil pan.
20. Remove the cylinder head.
21. Raise the vehicle on the lift.
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25. Using the pan separator, separate the oil pan from
the engine block in the indicated areas, and remove
the oil pan.
27. Loosen the oil pump sprocket mounting bolt.
OIL PUMP SPROCKET
MOUNTING BOLT
Pry here.
26. To hold the balancer shaft, insert a 6 mm (1/4 in.)
diameter long pin punch into the maintenance hole
in the balancer shaft holder and through the rear
balancer shaft.
28. Remove the cam chain and the oil pump chain
auto-tensioner.
OIL PUMP CHAIN
AUTO-TENSIONER
6 mm (1/4 in.)
DIAMETER
PIN PUNCH
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29. Remove the oil pump sprocket and the oil pump.
OIL PUMP
SPROCKET
32. Check the cylinder walls by rubbing your fingernail
or a pencil with light pressure perpendicular to any
vertical scratches that are in the cylinder bore.
• If your fingernail or pencil does not catch on the
scratches, the cylinder block is OK. Go to step
34.
• If your finger nail or pencil catches on the
scratches, go to step 33 to continue checking the
cylinder block.
OIL
PUMP
30. Remove the baffle plate.
BAFFLE
PLATE
31. Lower the vehicle to a comfortable working height,
and place a clean shop towel around the cylinder
wall to prevent debris from entering the coolant
passage.
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33. Remove the piston from the scratched cylinder
bore. Inspect the piston skirt for any scratches or
damage that corresponds with the scratched
cylinder bore.
• If the piston skirt has deep scratches, or is
damaged, and corresponds to the position of the
bore scratches, replace the engine block. This
bulletin no longer applies. You must obtain
DPSM approval and refer online to Engine
Removal and Installation to reinstall the
engine.
• If the piston skirt has no damage, the cylinder
block is OK; go to step 34.
34. Remove the rod caps and the bearings.
NOTE:
• Mark each rod cap and its corresponding rod
with the cylinder number.
• The existing markings refer to the size of the big
end of the rod, not the number of the cylinder.
Half of the number or bar is
stamped on the connecting rod
and the other half is stamped
on the rod cap.
35. Use a wooden hammer handle to drive out each of
the piston and connecting rod assemblies.
NOTE: Be careful not to damage the cylinder walls
or the crankshaft when pushing out the pistons and
the connecting rod assemblies.
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12-087
36. Visually inspect all the connecting rod bearings for
signs of damage.
NOTE: If your fingernail catches on a scratch or
groove in the bearing, replace it. Pictured are
normal reusable rod bearings after about 35,000
miles. Some discoloration is normal and does not
require replacement.
39. Put on eye protection, then remove the snap rings
from both sides of each piston. Start at the cutout in
the piston pin bore. Remove the snap rings
carefully so they do not go flying or get lost.
SNAP
RING
40. Put on gloves, heat the piston and the ends
connecting rod to about 158°F (70°C), then remove
the piston pin.
NOTE: The old piston, the pin, and the snap rings
will not be reused.
37. Measure the diameter of each connecting rod bolt
at points A and B.
35 mm (1.38 in)
B
A
20 mm (0.79 in)
41. Install a new piston pin snap ring on one side of a
new piston.
38. Calculate the difference in diameter between points
A and B:
• Point A – Point B = Difference in Diameter
• Difference in Diameter Specification:
0 - 0.1 mm (0.004 in.)
• If the difference in diameter is out of
specification, replace the connecting rod bolt.
12-087
SNAP RING
42. Coat the piston pin bore in the piston, the bore in
the connecting rod, and the piston pin with new
engine oil.
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43. Heat the piston to about 158°F (70°C).
48. Using a piston ring expander, install the spacer and
two oil rings. Install the second ring and top ring
with the manufacturing marks facing up. The
second ring has a “2” followed by a letter or letters.
The top ring has a “1” followed by a letter or letters.
NOTE: The new rings may not have the same
manufacturing marks as the originals.
TOP RING
MANUFACTURING
MARK
MANUFACTURING
MARK
44. Assemble the piston and the connecting rod with
the arrow and the embossed mark on the same
side. Install the piston pin.
SECOND
RING
NOTE: When the piston and the rod end are heated
properly, the piston pin should slide into position
relatively easily. You will damage the piston if you
try to use a hammer or a press to force the piston
pin in.
ARROW
49. Rotate the rings in their grooves to make sure they
do not bind.
50. Position the ring end gaps as shown.
About 90°
OIL RING GAP
SECOND RING GAP
EMBOSSED
MARK
About 45°
PISTON
PIN
SNAP
RING
TOP RING GAP and
SPACER RING GAP
OIL RING GAP
PISTON PIN
51. Rotate the crankshaft so that cylinders 1 and 4 are
at bottom dead center (BDC).
PISTON
52. Remove the connecting rod cap to piston 1, and
check that the bearing is securely in place.
CONNECTING ROD
45. Install the remaining snap ring.
46. Turn the snap ring in the ring grooves until the end
gaps are positioned at the bottom of the piston.
53. Apply new engine oil to the entire piston, the inside
of the ring compressor, the cylinder bore, and the
rod bearings.
47. Repeat steps 39 through 46 for the remaining
pistons.
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12-087
54. Position the mark to face the cam chain end of the
engine block.
56. Set the ring compressor on the piston bore, then
push the piston in with your hands.
MARK
55. Set the piston in the ring compressor, and position
the piston in the cylinder noting the rod/cap marks
that you made in step 34.
RING COMPRESSOR
Thinner edge up.
57. Stop after the ring compressor pops free, and
check the connecting rod-to-rod journal alignment
before pushing the piston into place.
58. Apply new engine oil to the bolt threads, then install
the connecting rod cap with the bearing. Torque the
bolts to 41 N.m (30 lb-ft).
The ring compressor
should be in this
position on the piston
before installation in
the cylinder bore.
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59. Tighten the connecting rod bolts an
additional 120°.
66. Align the dowel pin on the rear balancer shaft with
the mark on the oil pump.
NOTE: If you tightened a rod bolt beyond the
specified angle, remove it and repeat steps 58 and
59. Do not loosen the bolt back to the specified
angle.
MARK
DOWEL PIN
120°
67. To hold the rear balancer shaft, insert the 6 mm
(1/4 in.) diameter long pin punch into the
maintenance hole in the balancer shaft holder and
through the rear balancer shaft.
6 mm LONG
PIN PUNCH
60. Repeat steps 48 through 59 for piston number 4.
61. Rotate the crankshaft so that cylinders 2 and 3 are
at bottom dead center (BDC).
62. Repeat steps 48 through 59 for piston number 2
and 3.
63. Rotate the crankshaft several times after all
connecting rods have been installed to ensure that
nothing is binding.
64. Install the baffle plate, and torque the bolts to
12 N.m (8.7 lb-ft).
65. Place the No. 1 piston at top dead center (TDC).
Make sure the mark lines up with the pointer.
NOTE: The other pointer is not used.
UNUSED
POINTER
POINTER
68. Turn the oil pump auto-tensioner plate
counterclockwise to release the lock, then push the
auto-tensioner arm, and set the first cam to the first
edge of the rack. Insert a 3.0 mm (7/64 in.)
diameter pin into the hole.
NOTE: If the chain tensioner is not set up as
described, the tensioner will be damaged.
3.0 mm (7/64 in.)
DIAMETER PIN
RACK
FIRST CAM
TDC MARK
OIL PUMP CHAIN
AUTO-TENSIONER ARM
PLATE
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HOLE
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69. Apply new engine oil to the threads of the oil pump
mounting bolts and the oil pump sprocket mounting
bolt, then loosely install the oil pump with a new
O-ring.
OIL PUMP
SPROCKET
MOUNTING BOLT
• Install the oil pump chain on the crankshaft
sprocket with the colored link plate aligned with
the TDC mark on the crankshaft sprocket.
COLORED
LINK PLATE
TDC MARK
10 x 1.25 mm
44 N.m (33 lb-ft)
O-RING
Replace.
OIL
PUMP
OIL PUMP
SPROCKET
6 x 1.0 mm
12 N.m
(8.7 lb-ft)
OIL PUMP CHAIN
AUTO-TENSIONER
OIL PUMP
MOUNTING BOLTS
10 x 1.25 mm
44 N.m (33 lb-ft)
8 x 1.25 mm
22 N.m (16 lb-ft)
6 mm DIAMETER
PIN PUNCH
• Set the oil pump chain on the oil pump chain
sprocket with the punch mark aligned with the
center of the colored link plates, then install the
oil pump chain sprocket to the oil pump.
OIL PUMP
CHAIN GUIDE BOLT
12 N.m (8.7 lb-ft)
OIL PUMP
SPROCKET
MOUNTING BOLT
44 N.m (33 lb-ft)
OIL PUMP
CHAIN GUIDE
70. Torque the oil pump mounting bolts to
44 N.m (33 lb-ft).
OIL PUMP
CHAIN
SPROCKET
71. Install the engine oil pump chain.
• Set the crankshaft to top dead center (TDC).
Align the TDC mark on the crankshaft sprocket
with the pointer on the engine block.
PUNCH
MARK
POINTER ON THE
ENGINE BLOCK
COLORED
LINK PLATES
TDC MARK
CRANKSHAFT
SPROCKET
6 mm LONG
PIN PUNCH
• Apply new engine oil to the threads of the oil
pump sprocket mounting bolt, then install it and
torque it to 44 N.m (33 lb-ft).
72. Install the oil pump chain auto-tensioner, and
torque the bolts to 12 N.m (8.7 lb-ft).
73. Remove the 6 mm (1/4 in.) diameter long pin
punch.
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74. Remove the 3.0 mm pin from the oil pump chain
auto-tensioner.
3.0 mm (7/64 in.)
DIAMETER PIN
79. Tighten the bolts in three steps. In the final step,
torque all bolts, in sequence, to 12 N.m (9 lb-ft).
NOTE:
• Wait at least 30 minutes after installing the cam
chain case before filling the engine with oil.
• Do not run the engine for at least 3 hours after
installing the oil pan.
16
13
9
9
5
5
1
1
3
3
7
7
11 11
15 14
75. Remove all of the old liquid gasket from the oil pan
mating surfaces, the bolts, and the bolt holes.
76. Clean and dry the oil pan mating surfaces.
77. Apply liquid gasket, P/N 08717-0004, 08718-0003,
or 08718-0009, to the engine block mating surface
of the oil pan and to the inside edge of the threaded
bolt holes. Install the component within 5 minutes of
applying the liquid gasket.
NOTE:
• Apply a 2.5 mm (0.098 in) diameter bead of liquid
gasket along the broken line.
• If more than 5 minutes have passed after
applying the liquid gasket, remove the old liquid
gasket and residue, then reapply new liquid
gasket.
• Do not apply any sealant where the cam is
installed because the sealant will dry before you
can reinstall the case.
These three
bolts will be
installed after
the chain cover
18
14
is installed.
15
17
13
10
10
6
6
2
2
4
4
8
8
12
12
80. Install a new oil filter.
81. Reinstall the torque converter or clutch case cover
and torque the bolts to 12 N.m (8.7 lb-ft). Reinstall
the two bolts securing the oil pan to the
transmission and torque them to 64 N.m (47 lb-ft).
82. With A/T: Reinstall the shift cable cover, and torque
the bolts to 12 N.m (9 lb-ft).
No sealant
here. This area
will be sealed
after the chain
cover is
installed.
LIQUID GASKET
2.5 mm
(0.098 in.)
78. Install the oil pan to the engine block.
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83. Reinstall the cylinder head with a new gasket.
• Measure the diameter of each cylinder head bolt
at point A and point B.
• If either diameter is less than 10.8 mm (0.417 in),
replace the cylinder head bolt.
• Apply new engine oil to the threads and under
the bolt heads of all cylinder head bolts.
• After torquing, tighten all cylinder head bolts in
two steps (90° per step) using the sequence
shown above. If you are using a new cylinder
head bolt, tighten the bolt an extra 90°.
NOTE: Remove the cylinder head bolt if you
tightened it beyond the specified angle, and go
back to the second bullet to remeasure the bolt.
Do not loosen it back to the specified angle.
50 mm (1.97 in)
45 mm (1.77 in)
FIRST STEP
B
A
THIRD STEP
SECOND STEP
(New bolt)
84. Reinstall the rocker arm assembly and the cam
shafts.
• Torque the cylinder head bolts in sequence to
39 N.m (20 lb-ft). When using a preset click-type
torque wrench, be sure to tighten slowly and do
not overtighten. If a bolt makes any noise while
you are torquing it, loosen the bolt and retighten
it from the first step.
10
4
2
6
85. Reinstall the cam chain.
86. Apply liquid gasket to the oil pan where it meets the
cam chain case and to the inside edge of the
threaded bolt holes. Install the cam chain case
within 5 minutes of applying the liquid gasket.
8
LIQUID GASKET
7
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5
1
3
3.5 mm
(0.138 in)
9
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87. Install the cam chain case.
SPACER
CAM CHAIN CASE
ORDERING PISTONS
Every engine has some combination of A- and B-sized
pistons. You can determine the sizes and their
locations in the block by inspecting the markings on the
timing chain end of the engine block or by looking at
the pistons. Use the block as your guide to order
pistons before you start work on the vehicle.
If you look at the piston, the pistons have identifiers;
“A” pistons may or may not be marked; “B” pistons are
marked with a “B”. Pistons can be ordered prior to
engine disassembly.
OIL PAN BOLTS
12 N.m (8.7 lb-ft)
CHAIN
CASE
BOLTS
12 N.m
(8.7 lb-ft)
88. Adjust the valves.
89. Reinstall the cylinder head cover.
90. Reinstall the connecting pipe.
91. Reinstall the radiator hoses, the heater hoses, and
the water bypass hose.
92. Reinstall the EVAP canister purge valve bracket.
93. Connect the four fuel injectors, the engine mount
control solenoid connector, and the ground cables.
94. Reconnect the fuel feed hose and the quickconnect fitting cover.
95. Reconnect the EVAP canister hose.
96. Reinstall the warm up TWC with new gaskets and
nuts.
97. Install the intake manifold using new gaskets.
98. Reinstall the drive belt.
99. Fill the engine with coolant.
100. Reinstall the strut brace (if equipped), and torque
the bolts to 22 N.m (16 lb-ft).
101. Fill the engine with oil.
102. Do the battery terminal reconnection procedure.
103. Crank the engine for about 5 seconds to prime the
engine with oil pressure before plugging in the
ignition coils.
104. Reconnect the four ignition coils.
105. Do the idle learn procedure.
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